Sutherland – North West and Assynt

The west coast of Sutherland runs from Loch Kirkaig to Cape Wrath. These Lonely Lands have some of the most spectacular scenery in the whole of Britain. Although the mountains here are not as high as those further south, their individual splendour is striking. This is a starkly beautiful landscape of ancient rocks, lochs, sea lochs and islands lovely on a fine day, but dour when the weather is bad. Most of the roads are single track and require care, but they also force you to slow down and afford a new vista around every turn. Geology Most of the area has been designated as the North West Highlands Geopark, whose eastern boundary roughly follows the Moine Thrust from east of Loch Eriboll south to Ben More Assynt. Coigach and the Summer isles, to the south, are also included. Much of the landscape is composed of ancient Lewisian Gneiss, but this is overlain by Torridonian Sandstone in several places. The mountains of Suilven, canisp and Quinag are examples, as is the Stoer Peninsula, Handa island and much of the Parph Peninsula. Outcrops of limestone at Durness, inchnadamph and Elphin are lush in comparison to most of the area. Many of the mountains are capped with Cambrian Quartzite, which gleams in the sunshine, especially when wet. This complex geology combined with the relatively mild climate leads to a hugely diverse range of habitats, making it a compelling place for naturalists to visit. There are many localities where one can spend the entire day without seeing anyone, or any sign of human habitation. The changeability of the weather creates enchanting and variable light at all times of year. To see the wild flowers and breeding birds the best time to visit is early summer. Snow rarely lingers long near the coast, but when it falls the landscape is transformed.

Credit Charles Tait Altnaharra

Altnaharra (G Allt N Herra, Stream of the Parish) is one of the remotest villages in the UK.  It holds the record for the lowest temperature, of minus 27.2oc in December 1995.  It is a popular base for anglers, deer stalkers, climbers and, hill walkers. From here the A836 goes north to Tongue and south [...]


Credit Charles Tait Ardvreck Castle and Calda House

Ardvreck Castle stands at the south end of Loch Assynt. Now a gaunt ruin, it dates from the late 15th century, and was the seat of the MacLeods of Assynt. It was a tower house, at least three storeys high. The circular, corbelled section enclosed the staircase while the vaulted basement probably held the kitchen, [...]


Credit Charles Tait Ben More Assynt and Conival

Ben More Assynt (998m) and Conival (987m) are the highest peaks in the district. Only the great western bulk of Conival is visible from the road. Both are capped by Cambrian Quartzite, grey on a dull day but bright in the sun. The ascent is normally made from the Inchnadamph Hotel, but it is a [...]


Credit Charles Tait Canisp

Canisp (ON White Mountain, 846m) is to the northeast of Suilven and stands isolated 691m above its surrounding wilderness. The view from the top is regarded as being one of the best in Scotland, and which repays the long trek in from the cam Loch, Loch Awe or Lochinver.


Cape Wrath Cape Wrath

CAPE WRATH (ON Hvarf, Turning Point) is eighteen kilometers from Durness Village and is the most north-westerly point on the British mainland.  The engineer in charge of building Cape Wrath lighthouse was Robert Stevenson. It was first lit in 1828, and has an elevation of 122m. Stone for the tower and dwelling houses was quarried at [...]


Credit Charles Tait Inchnadamph NNR

Inchnadamph NNR is something of a paradise for geologists and botanists. The former come to study the complex rock formations of the Moine Thrust, while the latter are attracted by the amazing diversity of plants which grow on the limestone outcrops in this area. Even people with little knowledge of geology or botany cannot fail [...]


Credit Charles Tait Kinlochbervie

Kinlochbervie is now a major landing port for white fish trawlers and the fish market makes an interesting visit during an auction. The flurry of activity as the catch is landed, sorted, sold and despatched on trucks is in great contrast to the relaxed atmosphere which pervades most of the time. Apart from a number [...]


Credit Charles Tait Kylesku

Kylesku is an attractive little village just off the main road, south of the bridge. it has a pier from which boat trips are run in the summer to the Kerrachar Gardens and to the waterfalls. These afford a good chance to see wildlife such as seals, Otters or Golden Eagles. Kylesku Bridge is an [...]


Credit Charles Tait Lochinver

Lochinver is the only large village in Assynt, and owes its prosperity to its excellent harbour. Fishing boats land their catches of whitefish and shellfish here for shipment south. The imposing sugar loaf of Suilven, and neighbouring Canisp, provide a magnificent backdrop to the village. Perhaps the best views are from the side road going [...]


Credit Charles Tait Quinag

QUINAG (G Chuineag, milking pail) is a large mountain (808m), which dominates the landscape all around it. Perhaps the most striking view is from the road north of the Kylesku Bridge. The mountain is composed of Torridonian Sandstone and the high peaks are topped by Cambrian Quartzite.


Credit Charles Tait Scourie

Scourie (G Scobh Airigh, Shieling by the Little Wood) is a small village situated at the head of Scourie Bay. A small sandy beach is backed by an area of machair. Now bypassed by the A894, the village is a good place to stop and also a fine base from which to explore the far [...]


Credit Charles Tait Smoo Cave

Smoo Cave is located at the eastern edge of the village of Durness, on Scotland’s most northerly coastline. It is a dramatic location and on the only primary road in the area, the A838 Durness to Tongue.  A trip to Smoo Cave has to be included in any stay in Durness. Set into limestone cliffs, [...]