The east coast is mostly composed of Old red Sandstone, but there are also Jurassic rocks exposed along the coast between Helmsdale and Golspie. In contrast to much of Caithness south of Wick, the shores are gentle and low, with expansive sandy beaches backed by links. Loch Fleet and the Dornoch Firth are large inlets from the sea with many sand and mudbanks. They are both fed by river systems running from the watershed far to the west. Waders and waterfowl feed and roost in large numbers, especially in winter. The county town of Dornoch is an ancient settlement and a royal Burgh with the only cathedral in the area. It is also home to the royal Dornoch, one of the best and oldest golf courses in the world. Most of the other settlements are also on the coast and includeGolspie, Brora and Helmsdale. Bonar Bridge at the Kyle of Sutherland and Lairg at the head of Loch Shin are at strategic crossroads. Inland there is much evidence of former settlement. The Straths of Kildonan, Fleet and Oykel, as well as most of the remainder of the area was cleared of a large number of its indigenous people in the 19th century during the notorious clearances. in recent times people have started to return but the remoter locations remain largely unpopulated. There are many interesting places to stop and explore, seek out ancient sites, watch birds or enjoy spectacular scenery.
Balblair WoodsBalblair Wood was replanted with Scots Pine in 1905 after a violent storm. It lies to the south of Golspie past the golf course. A series of nature trails though the wood offers pleasant walking in all seasons, but it is a special treat in summer. The very rare One-flowered Wintergreen (or St Olaf ’s [...]
Ben BhraggieBen Bhraggie (394m) and its statue of the 1st Duke of Sutherland is a prominent landmark. The summit can be reached by a path leading from the centre of the village. There are fine panoramic views along the coast. The return route follows Dunrobin Glen and the Big Burn past a waterfall and small gorge.
Bonar BridgeBonar Bridge lies at the south end of the Kyle of Sutherland, the confluence of the Salmon rich rivers of carron, Oykel and Shin. it was for long a ferry point, but in 1812 Thomas Telford chose it for the first of three bridges to cross here, and the village prospered until the Dornoch Bridge was [...]
BroraBrora (ON Brua A, Bridge river) in the parish of clyne (G cleonadh, sloping) lies at the mouth of the river Brora. There is ample evidence for prehistoric settlement including chambered cairns, hut circles, field systems, brochs, and a substantial hillfort. These early inhabitants would have been attracted by the fertile land of the coastal [...]
DornochDORNOCH (G Dorn Eich, horses hoof ) is a lovely little town facing south and east across the Dornoch Firth. Major redevelopment during 1810-1815 by the countess of Sutherland created the pretty cottages. The sandstone buildings fit in well with the ancient cathedral, giving the town a picturesque appearance reminiscent of a cotswolds village. Dornoch [...]
EmboEmbo was established as a fishing village during the clearances in the early 19th century. Today there is no fishing but it is a popular holiday resort due to its lovely long sandy beach. Perhaps its appeal is the chambered cairn in the car park of the caravan site. The cairn contained a number of [...]
GolspieGOLSPIE (ON Golls Baer, Goll’s Farm) is situated on the narrow coastal plain below Ben Bhraggie. The village is sheltered from the west and faces south to the Dornoch Firth. With an award winning and lovely sandy beach, nearby woodland and links, it is a very pleasant place to stop. St Andrew’s Church was rebuilt [...]
HelmsdaleHelmsdale (ON Hjalmundur’s Dale) is a pretty little village at the Mouth of the river Helmsdale. For centuries it was an isolated salmon fishing and curing station. In 1814 building of a new planned village and harbour was commenced by the Sutherland Estate to accommodate some of the families who had been displaced. The idea [...]
LairgLairg (G Lairig, sloping hill) is the crossroads of Sutherland. Situated at the south end of Loch Shin, it is an ancient settlement site, with many Neolithic remains. Today it is renowned for its great annual sheep sale, the largest in Scotland. At the main sale in August over 25,000 sheep may change hands. This [...]
RogartROGART (ON red Farm), or Pittentrail, is in the middle of Strath Fleet, which leads west from the Mound to Lairg. This valley and the surrounding area is ruggedly attractive with a scattering of farms, houses and crofts and forms part of the parish of Rogart.
