Thurso (ON Thors or Thiorrs A, Thor’s or Bull river) was already an important settlement in Norse times as it is mentioned frequently in the Orkneyinga Saga. Both the Earl and the Bishop had castles here. The site of the former keep is unknown, but it is said to have been slighted by King William the Lion in about 1197 after the mutilation of Bishop William. Part of the Bishop’s Palace can be seen near the coastguard hut on the road to Scrabster. With a population of just under 9,000, Thurso is the largest town in caithness and the most northerly in mainland Britain. It has a distinctive aspect, facing north to the Pentland Firth and Orkney. The town grew rapidly in the 19th century due to the success of the flagstone industry and, again in the latter half of the 20th century with the development of Dounreay. The original village was on the west side of the river and, until recently, was known as Fishers’ Biggings . Many of the houses here date from the 17th and 18th centuries, and have been tastefully renovated rather than demolished. Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster laid out the new town in 1798 to provide homes “for all sorts and conditions of men”. The regular layout of wide parallel streets, attractive and varied houses with gardens to the rear and narrow lanes gives the town a somewhat refined air. Janet Street faces the river Thurso and has some particularly fine Georgianstyle buildings.
The origin of the name Thurso may indeed derive from the Norse god Thor, but it is more likely to come from a much more ancient river name, represented by Thiorsa in Norse but probably very much older and reflected in Ptolemy’s supposed name for Holborn Head Tarvedum or Bull Head from the Celtic roots tarv, bull and dun, fort. The headland has a series of ramparts defending its landward approaches. river names seem to be most highly conserved of all placenames, often surviving multiple language changes.
Thurso is renowned for it Surfing which has become a popular sport in the area. In certain wind and tidal conditions very large waves build up and break on the east side of Thurso Bay. The Pentland Firth is famous for its strong tides and ferocious seas, which are responsible for the waves that so please surfers. In April Thurso hosts the O’Neill Cold Water classic.
Places to visit are Old St Peter’s Kirk, Thurso River, Thurso Castle and Caithness Horizons in the town centre.
