A little over a hundred years ago the east coast harbours of Caithness and Sutherland were at the heart of the North Sea herring boom, with Wick one of the principal fishing ports in Scotland. Today’s route takes you down this spectacular coastline, through the villages and harbours immortalised in Neil Gunn’s classic story, ‘The Silver Darlings’.
Noss Head and Castle Sinclair Girnigoe
From the centre of Wick, cross the river heading south and take the first exit at the roundabout, leading you alongside the harbour. Cross back over at the next bridge and follow the coast and signposting for Noss. Return to Wick the way you came.
The Heritage Centre is located in Bank Row, in Lower Pultneytown. On the main road, from the centre of Wick, cross the river and take the second small exit at the roundabout, passing MacKays Hotel. Continue along this road until you reach the museum.
Leaving Wick on the A99, head south for just over 12 miles. Shortly after you have passed the small settlement of Mid Clyth, turn right onto the road signposted to Watten. The Grey Cairns rise from the moorland several miles along this road.
Lybster Harbour and Waterlines
Return to the main A99 and follow the signs for the harbour at Lybster, where you will find the Waterlines Heritage Centre. If Lybster whets your appetite for the fishing heritage of this spectacular coast, the secluded harbours of Latheronwheel, Dunbeath and Berriedale are worth a visit as you travel south on A9.
Over the Ord of Caithness – the hill that separates the county from Sutherland – lies the picturesque fishing village of Helmsdale. Turn into the village off the A9 and you will find Timespan Museum and Arts Centre.
